Boreal Unisex's Joker Plus Sneakers

Product Information

Once worn in they're an extremely sensitive and comfortable shoe, which can be worn all day either on routes or bouldering Fit The uppers are virtually all leather with BD's own 'Engineered Knit Technology' for the tongue. The latter feature gives a soft feel and is said to breathe better than a 'solid' togue, although there is relatively little tongue exposed so this difference has to be minimal. It is possible that the leather uppers may stretch a bit, and they do have a certain amount of give which will allow a more flexible fit. Having said that, our pair seem to be pretty good with regard to stretch after a few months' use - ie there hasn't been much. There is a heel tension strap but it has no more power than the Momentum's - comfort for sure, but not the semi-aggressive performance you would expect in a mid-range shoe. When you try on a lace-up shoe, undo the laces completely and then tighten them accordingly from toe to ankle. Alpha features the same super-comfortable semi-asymmetric last as the top-selling Joker model. A low tension rand means there is less unwanted pressure on the foot and the shoe retains shape over time. The unlined microfibre upper feels comfortable next to the skin straight from the box. As per my comments on Zenith Quattro within the relatively recent review of the Boreal Beta and Beta Eco, it wasn't - in my opinion - the grippiest; however, it was, in turn, much more durable. You can't have everything and Boreal have designed that compound with longevity in mind.

Personally I find the Maestro a bit on the soft/flat side, which is the same issue I have with the Anasazi (which I've always wanted to like, but never got on with). I've got pretty high arches, so tend to prefer something a little more downturned and have used a blend of La Sportiva Katana Lace, La Sportiva Otaki, Scarpa Instinct VS, Scarpa Instinct Lace, and Scarpa Boostic over the past few years. When it comes to edging the Boostic really does take some beating, but it's definitely at the higher volume end of the spectrum - particularly when compared to the Katana Lace - which also has a fantastic edging performance.The uppers are made from lined microfibre, which certainly gives the NIAD a comfortable feel. Five Ten believe the use of this material helps the shoe to 'maintain a consistent fit,' whereas in reality the shoe's shape changes considerably over time. That's not to say this is a bad thing – the Anasazi always changed over time, and as previously mentioned, what this means is that the shoe's purpose changes too: from an edging machine to a sensitive smearer. The downside to buying online is that you can’t actually get hold of the product to try it out first. While both models are shod with 3.5mm soles of Vibram rubber this is where the similarities end. Firstly, they use different rubber: the Quantic uses XS Edge while the Quantix SF uses XS Grip 2. Unsurprisingly, XS Edge is designed to be slightly firmer, which should help the Quantic hold micro edges. Meanwhile the XS Grip 2 is focused primarily on friction so is slightly softer. The soles and rands on both pairs are wearing well and, noticeably, having had the Quantic (with XS Edge) for a number of months longer than the Quantix SF, its edges are still really sharp and feel great on little edges. I've used them a lot on quarried limestone where edging is the norm and they have been superb.

The Joker are at the broader end of the spectrum, so accommodate wider feet nicely. Volume-wise they sit somewhere in the middle, which is a blessing given that this then allows them to fit quite a range of feet, as the volume can easily be adjusted from high to low courtesy of either the lacing or the velcro closure. If you're after something a little narrower and lower volume then Boreal produce a women's model, which would potentially provide a solution - irrespective of whether or not you're actually a woman. While superficially nearly identical to the Quantic, the Quantix SF actually have some quite different things going on under the hood You might expect a more supportive, easy route model to be stiff and clumpy underfoot, but these slip lasted shoes have quite a soft feel, at least in the rear half of the foot, and this no doubt helps them feel forgiving on the feet. They come in a huge size range too, including half sizes, and in both male and female-specific lasts; top marks to Boreal there. Upper The rubber is Stealth C4 and I personally believe there's nothing better. It gives me the confidence to use the most marginal smears, or commit to horrible slopey volumes indoors. This has been a large contributing factor to Five Ten's success over the years and the NIAD Lace is no exception. This shoe is pitched as an all-rounder. Out of the box, it's an edging machine. It's got a stiff, supportive midsole that stretches the entire length of the shoe, making it a great option for long routes on edges. Over time, the shoe softens up considerably, giving it a new lease of life – its forte becomes smearing, ideal for gritstone or sandstone where you really want to feel what's beneath.By streamlining the key features, Alpha provides a durable, comfortable and great value shoe for any newcomers to the sport. New heel rand construction provides a more stable and higher friction zone for enhanced performance on more loaded heel hooks. Choosing the right size climbing shoe is the most difficult aspect of buying climbing shoes online - a pair of shoes that fit well will improve performance more than any other bit of equipment you own, and so getting the right size is important.

Haven’t really noticed the heel feeling any different. A bit less volume on the outside so perhaps better for smaller heel hooks. That’s why we’ve pulled together this list of key factors for Boreal Alpha Men’s Climbing Shoe below, to help you choose if it’s the right product for you and your budget.

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The Mocc is a flat-lasted, moderately assymetric shoe. In terms of width and volume it sits somewhere in the middle. It could even be on the narrower side, but as someone with a wide foot I haven't found this to be a problem, because the unlined upper gives around the shape of your foot. As a result of this, I have found that they are - once worn in - an extremely comfortable shoe. Though it's good, the construction of the UP Mocc does feel a little basic. I get the impression this may be an Unparallel thing; it seems as if they make good, functional shoes, but perhaps not necessarily shoes with flourish in terms of their finish. Arguably, one upshot of this is that they're not as expensive as some of the Italian models that are being released, with the UP Mocc coming in at a relatively competitive price in comparison.

The Flagship LV has a lower volume, is a bit narrower (both around the forefoot and the heel) and has a lower cuff around the ankle than the original Flagship, but that's not the only change - the sizing also differs (which is definitely something to be aware of). I have a UK5 in the original Flagship and so got a UK5 in the Low Volume version, assuming it would feel smaller; however, I should have gone for the half, or even full size smaller, and I'd highly recommend doing this if it's outright performance that you're after. The Flagship LV seems larger than the full volume version for a given size, and in the future I would definitely go for the plastic bag approach with this shoe to get the most out of its features. Even just being half a size too big has meant that the heel slips on easily and in some cases slips off too. I have really enjoyed wearing a slightly bigger shoe. Warming up in them and wearing them for everything has worked well, plus they've been great for smearing. The Engage lace is a medium to narrow width, with a pretty regular volume. Being fully laced, this shoe will adapt to lots of different foot types and you can reduce the volume. However, if you have a wide foot you may struggle. As ever with footwear, try before you buy. Summary: The new Vapour V uses Scarpa's 'FR' last, which is the lowest volume in the range. When it comes to width it's realistically on the regular to narrow end of the spectrum. The sizing is - I am happy to say - in line with other Scarpa models, which is usually one (European) size down from your street shoe size.The Satori features a three-quarter length midsole which comes halfway up the arch of your foot. This allows the shoes to flex a lot, giving maximum power in the toe, whilst still providing some support for climbing routes. The level of support and stiffness which a midsole provides can easily be seen through Boreal's current trilogy of shoes: the Dharma features a full midsole and is the stiffest and most supportive shoe (best for routes), the Satori features the three-quarter length midsole allowing it to flex more and provide some support (routes/bouldering) and the Synergy doesn't have a midsole, allowing it flex a lot, giving lots of power and softness but little support (ideal for bouldering). There's obviously a bit more detail involved than that but it does give a nice demonstration of the power of the midsole! Haven’t really tested the toe hook patch. Not sure it’s really required as this isn’t a bouldering specialist shoe.