Gyproc Plasterboard Patches various sizes 12 Pack (2 x 50mm, 5 x 100mm & 5 x 150mm))

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Another complication that springs to light when you have unfortunately made a hole in a plasterboard wall or hollow door is the void behind it due to the construction of the stud work used to hold the plasterboard up or provide the framework for the door meaning that you can’t just use filler as there is nothing to bond it to.

You may be doing the same, or you may just be skimming over little bits, leaving most of your existing plaster exposed. Either way, I have covered how to skim coat in another post. Here's a link to it which will open in a new tab for you. If there are only a few bits of detached plaster, great, this means you're in the right place, read on. If there are lots of loose bits of plaster and you're unsure whether it's worth patching it up, I would opt for removing the lot from that wall and re-plastering it all, better safe than sorry. To learn how to completely re-plaster a wall, start here. Once the patch is dry and firmly in position, gently remove the screw. Use patching plaster, all purpose filler or multi-finish plaster — mix up enough to cover the patch and gently press into the hole and spread with a putty knife that is larger than the hole to help get a smooth finish. For me, when I was sorting out both bedrooms, I skim the lot, over the old plaster too. This is because I wanted to make sure I had a flat surface throughout and I'd already had a bit of practice at skim coating. In both cases, you'll need to skim over the undercoat plaster or the plasterboard to achieve a smooth finish, smooth enough to paint onto.When working with plaster, it's best to only work with small amounts on the hawk and trowel. Try to build up a rhythm so you can cover the patch repair before the plaster starts to set For more advice, see our online guides or leaflets ‘How To Plaster a Wall’ and ‘How To Prepare Walls & Ceilings for Decorating’ Very briefly, whilst I'm on the subject, there is one thing I really want to point out - as per the instructions of the Plasterboard adhesive, there is no need to PVA the masonry before you attach plasterboard, just clean down the masonry. You really do need to make sure it's cleaned down well, otherwise the adhesive will be attaching itself to dust and may separate from the wall in time. With Bonding Coat, it contains really large particles. It's no good for a finishing skim, it's just too rough. It does however provide a really good key for a finishing skim coat. Therefore, don't worry too much about getting it smooth, just concentrate on getting the levels right i.e. it shouldn't poke out too far and there shouldn't be a dip. With mine, I troweled off my bonding coat so that it was flush with the surrounding (good) plaster. This was because I was completely skimming over that wall, so the finished level will be a couple of millimeters above the existing good plaster.

Spread a small blob over the hole and wait for it to dry. Once dry, get a 180-220 grit sandpaper and rub down until smooth and blended with the current surface. How do You Fix a Hole in Plasterboard on the Ceiling? To repair a hole in a hollow door, wall, or ceiling, firstly trim the edges of the hole and make is square. Ironically, you actually have to make the hole larger before you can go about fixing it! Push the edge of the hole inwards a little, if the layers of the plasterboard surface have created a raised edge (as can happen when something is pulled out of the wall). You can see how I’ve done this with the end of a wrench handle in the picture above. Not only does this help flatten the wall surface, but it also helps to fill the hole and gives you a base to put the filler. Some plaster products shouldn’t be applied to a depth of more the 12mm in one go. If this is the case, you may need to make two or more applications Once the adhesive has dried enough to support the patch you can now push the screw out into the wall void. Leave for a further 24 hours for the adhesive to completely harden off and then you can start filling.Top tip: Apply the layers in different directions each time in sweeping motions and use the magic (ok, it’s not magic, but it is brilliant!) squeegee to get the smoothest finish. For larger holes locate the joists either side of the hole in the ceiling and mark the middle with a straight pencil line and create a rectangle around the hole. Cut out and add two noggins to bridge the gap between the joists. The first thing to do is to cut out a rectangle around the hole using a steel rule and a Stanley knife. Alternatively, mark out with a pencil and ruler and cut out with a jab saw. Remove any items or objects from the wall so nothing protrudes out from the wall & make sure your wall is clean and dry. Now you will need a piece of plasterboard to fill the hole. Ideally this needs to be thinner than the current plasterboard. Measure and cut to fill the hole. Fix in place against the noggins with plasterboard screws or nails.