Lonely Planet Sri Lanka (Travel Guide)

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Where to try it: Visit roadside hopper stalls for an inexpensive Sri Lankan meal. For a gourmet experience, reserve a table at the fine-dining Palmyrah Restaurant in the Renuka City Hotel. Devour string hoppers with curry

The monsoon season is also a great time to explore the country’s east coast with sandy beaches, a vibrant surf scene, and abundant wildlife. The period between June and August offers world-class conditions for kitesurfing in Kalpitiya. Things get quiet during the shoulder season in October and November, but you’ll be able to find cheaper accommodation options when the south coast slowly opens up. Take the airport bus This national park is one of the best places in the country to see wild elephants, which are often present in huge numbers. Dominated by the ancient Minneriya Wewa, the park has plenty of scrub, forest and wetlands in its 88.9 sq km to also provide shelter for toque macaques, sambar deer, buffalo, crocodiles and leopards (the latter are very rarely seen, however). On the way there, you’ll rattle past rolling hills, paddy fields, lush stands of tropical forest, palm trees waving like giant hands and miniature village train stations with tin roofs and station attendants standing at attention in immaculate uniforms. You’ll also feel the air cool as you leave the baking coastal plain for the more pleasant climate of the hills. A watery wonderland of coastal lagoons and bird-thronged wetlands, Bundala National Park speaks to lovers of all things aquatic. Flamingos (who number in the thousands) and crocodiles are the stars of the show, though vividly colorful bee-eaters and openbill storks will titillate the more discerning twitcher. Elephants are another draw – the high season around December is the best time to see the park's jumbos.To celebrate Eid, Muslim families in Sri Lanka prepare a coconut custard called watalappan sweetened with jaggery and topped with cashews for extra crunch. The hike will take you over rivers, past waterfalls, and through lush cloud forests before you arrive at a vantage point that is famed for sightings of whistling thrushes and Sri Lankan bush warblers. You won’t see much in the way of mammalian wildlife up here, but that doesn’t matter when the birdlife and flora are this seductive. Stop in Kappalady on the Indian Ocean for kitesurfing lessons with local instructors at Kite Center Sri Lanka. The kite school can arrange kitesurfing safaris (tours) to nearby spots such as Donkey Point, Dutch Bay and Vella Island for more experienced kiteboarders. Other activities in Kappalady include exploring the lagoons by kayak and ethical dolphin-watching tours where large pods of spinner dolphins swim in their hundreds. Good operators will only charter small boats, keep their distance from the pods, and avoid feeding the animals. There are also a few accommodation options by the beach in Kappalady. 6. Camp in the Haputale mountains

The trip from Colombo to Kandy is just a warm-up for Sri Lanka’s most beautiful train ride: the British-era Main Line, built as a conduit for Sri Lanka’s most famous export: tea.It also offers something other parks don't – a volunteer program run by the Sri Lanka Wildlife Conservation Society, where you can observe the elephants in the wild and help with their conservation. Bundala National Park Best for seeing turtles, crocodiles, and flamingos Numerous places set up tables and chairs right up to the tide line day and night. Wander and compare which one has the freshest seafood. All are good for a beer; some also serve espresso coffee. Weligama’s smiling 2km (1.2-mile) bay has emerged as one of the best surfing beaches in Sri Lanka for beginners, thanks to a forgiving sandy-bottomed break. Rent boards and book lessons from the surf outfits to the west of the bay – most are run by young surfers with first-hand knowledge of the local breaks. Weligama’s fine sand attracts families too, and there are plenty of places to eat, drink and sleep in every price range. Kabalana While Sri Lanka's elephant orphanages have a mixed reputation, there are a few ethical operators close to Uda Walawe, in case you haven’t quite had your fill of cute jumbo toddlers. Start with the Elephant Transit Home, supported by the Born Free Foundation. NEW pull-out, passport-size 'Just Landed' cardwith wi-fi, ATM and transport info - all you need for a smooth journey from airport to hotel